Sunday 6 June 2010

Angela Hartnett's Murano

Another entry about Italian food this week courtesy of my trip to Murano in Mayfair on Saturday afternoon.

I had been wanting to sample Murano for a while now, but for one reason or another always seemed to not quite make it.

Its a small, intimate restaurant just off Curzon Street with a discreet and almost unassuming entrance. If you weren't going there for lunch or dinner you would probably not even notice it. We arrived rather early for our 13:30 reservation but where shown to our table without fuss. The interior is a soothing combination of crisp white linen tables, olive green leather armchairs and an array of elegant freezes on the walls.

The menu choice actually surprised. The tasting menu, full a la carte and set lunch menu were all available. We opted for the fantastic value set lunch menu. It contains a good selection of dishes and the price included appetisers, amuse bouche and pre dessert as well! All this and three courses for just £30. A great offer in anyones book, and lets face it who can face an eight course extravaganza or full a la carte session for lunch anyway. Especially when temperatures outside are pushing 30 degrees.

A starter of confit chicken ravioli, followed by a glorious main course of roasted cod with parisienne gnocchi, was finished off with a nice rich hot chocolate brownie and coffee ice cream. Of course you expect the food to be beyond reproach when you eat at a venue such as this. However, I am increasingly of the view that well prepared food is not just enough anymore. I like to feel the experience of eating as well and in that regard Murano delivers perfectly. The food, presentation and the general relaxed but smart atmosphere deliver a refined dinning experience without the overly stuffiness of some other famous restaurants nearby.

The wine list, as you would expect from one of Ramsey's flag ship eateries, was long and complete. A decent choice by the glass actually led us to enjoy a couple of glasses white burgundy, 2006 Meursault "Les Corbin" Vincent Dancer, despite the heady list of Italian bedfellows in the wine list.

With the closure of Foliage at the Mandarin Oriental, Murano could become my new favourite lunching venue. I shall be returning again soon. Only next time it will be for dinner and to sample the great a la carte menu!

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