Bar Boulud, Failure to Lunch

Daniel Boulud has taken up residence at the self titled Bar Boulud in Mandarin Oriental's Knightsbridge hotel. Boulud's flagship New York restaurant has won plaudits the world over for its innovative take on french cuisine, and is rightly regarded as one of the main players in that cities extensive dinning scene. With this in mind, his arrival on these shores comes with considerable expectation.

Bar Boulud promises much form the start. It has its own entrance to the side of the hotel, directly off the busy streets opposite Harvey Nichols. The reception/bar area are modern and spacious and you are greeted with genuine warmth by the front of house staff. However, once you move through the bar area and are sat down at your table it starts to unravel alarmingly quickly. The tables are too close together, the waiting staff seem to be going through the motions and to top it off the food is just not that special for the prices being charged. Yes, the young, rich and beautiful may fill it day in day out, but that does not necessarily mean you should also choose to eat there.

Its not bad. I should be clear about that. But I expected much more and was left feeling fairly indifferent to the place. It all just felt a little too formulaic. This is probably the best way to describe Bar Boulud. It does not really stand out from the crowd. The decor is nice without being stunning, the food is alright without being impressive and the overall experience sufficient without being memorable. I can't actually remember what I ate there, which just about says it all.

To be honest the Mandarin Oriental deserves better. Especially since the faultless Foliage was, in part at least, closed down to make way for this new venue. Hopefully Heston Blumenthals "Dinner by Heston" will right this when it too opens at the Mandarin Oriental later this year.

If you fancy some french cooking and a nice lunch go up the road to Helene Darroze at the Connaught. Its a little more expensive than Bar Boulud but oh so much better value.