Sunday 15 August 2010

Petrus - the wine, the restaurant

Petrus means different things to different people. To some, it is a small boutique wine estate in the Pomerol region of Bordeaux, producing one of the most sought after and expensive wines in the world. To others, Petrus means the legendary restaurant at The Berkeley Hotel (until that is the acrimonious split between Marcus Wareing and Gordon Ramsey took place). To some, it means the new restaurant that Ramsey has opened, just footsteps from its old location, within a stones throw from Wareing's fabulous restaurant at The Berkeley.

To me, Petrus means all three.

Petrus, the wine, to most is almost unobtainable. A deep, rich, powerful Pomerol of such intensity that it can't help take your breath away. Its produced in such small quantities each year that its release price is always astronomic and continues to grow in value to the point of ridiculousness as it ages. Go on line now and you'll see single bottles trading for several thousand pounds and cases routinely selling for tens of thousands. If you are ever lucky enough to have the opportunity to try some of this amazing wine make sure you grasp it with both hands.

In terms of Petrus, the restaurant, I was never able to visit the original in The Berkeley. However, I have been to its new incarnation down the road from its original haunt. I can't compare the new with the old, but can report that the new one is very much on the money.

I went for a Saturday lunch after a morning of wandering around the Knightsbridge shops. I ordered salmon and lobster cannelloni as a starter which was served with a nice tangy vine tomato sauce. A lovely steamed piece of sea bream followed served on a bed of fennel and apple whilst a hazelnut parfait finished things off nicely. To supplement this I had two glasses of Puligny Montrachet. Very tasty indeed.

The dinning room is light and airy, built around the central wine cellar which is made of glass. As the tables look inwards towards this focal point it gives you a glorious view into what is on offer. Service is efficient and to the point, which I like, and the tables are nicely spaced so you don't feel like you have to eaves drop on the table next door. All in all, there is not much to grumble about.

Of course, any restaurant called Petrus must pay tribute to its namesake wine in some shape or form. In this regard, Petrus, the restaurant, scores grandly. Never before have I seen a wine list with so many Petrus vintages on it. I think I counted sixteen. Although, to be honest, I lost count after about ten, as I noticed the prices getting higher and higher as my eyes were drawn further and further down the list.

You may expect a restaurant named after one of the most expensive wines in the world to be a tad pricey. However, at £25 for the three course set lunch, plus the obligatory amuse bouche and pre desert, you can't go wrong. I'd recommend it for a nice weekend lunch, although you will need to book ahead as its busy (we had to book a month in advance to get a table). Just make sure that while you are there you stay away from the offerings of Petrus, the wine. Unless that is you have several thousand pounds burning a hole in your wallet.

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